Watch an Italian grandmother cook pasta and you will notice a small ritual that most Americans skip entirely. Just before she drains the pot, she dips a cup or a ladle into the cloudy, starchy water and sets it aside, and only then does she pour the rest down the sink. That saved cup of …
Walk through a Spanish town in September and you will notice something in the air, a sweet, smoky, unmistakable smell drifting from windows and balconies and courtyards. It is the unmistakable smell of roasting peppers, and for a few weeks each autumn it seems to fill the whole country entirely, because this is the season …
A lot of people talk about brain health after 70 as if the whole answer lives in supplements, crossword puzzles, and whatever expensive powder is currently pretending to be neuroscience. The more useful answer is usually much duller. Eat breakfast. Eat it regularly. Do not turn the first meal of the day into either a …
The French cafe is one of the great pleasures of travel, and it is also a quiet minefield of unwritten rules that an American can trip over before the coffee even lands on the table. None of them are written on any menu, but all of them are enforced by the servers and the regulars …
Tell an American that you and your spouse are taking separate vacations this year, that you are off to hike with friends while your partner heads somewhere else entirely, and you may be met with a worried look and the unspoken question, is everything okay at home. In much of Europe, the same announcement raises …
Somewhere in Spain, in an ordinary hospital nursery, a striking statistic is playing out one baby at a time. Roughly one in nine babies born in the country now comes into the world with the help of fertility treatment, a share so high it makes Spain the assisted-reproduction capital of Europe. Behind that number are …
Every year in France, hundreds of thousands of couples make their relationship official, and a remarkable share of them skip marriage entirely for something else. It is called the PACS, a kind of civil union that has quietly grown into one of the most popular ways to formalize a relationship in the country, so popular …
There is a way of eating well that fits on the back of a napkin and asks you to count exactly nothing, and it is one of the most quietly powerful things I have ever tested. The rule is simple: fill half your plate with vegetables, a quarter with protein, and a quarter with whole …
An American man walks up to a public swimming pool in France, ready for a swim, wearing the same knee-length board shorts he wears at every pool back home. The attendant stops him at the entrance and refuses to let him in. The problem is not the man, or his behaviour, or his ticket. It …
The Portuguese eat sardines the way other people eat bread, grilled over charcoal at summer festivals, tinned in olive oil for a lazy lunch, piled on grilled bread with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon. After enough time watching my neighbors work through them without a second thought, I got curious enough to run …
Suggest to a typical American that they might rent, rather than own, a home in retirement, and you will usually get a horrified look, followed by the familiar catechism: renting is throwing money away, you have to build equity, you do not want to be paying a landlord at seventy. It is one of the …
A 64-year-old woman in a small town outside Florence starts every morning the same way she has for the past 35 years. She fills a glass with warm water from the kettle. She squeezes half a lemon into it. She sips it slowly across about 8 minutes while she stands at her kitchen window. Then …