In Sicily, on a hot July morning, breakfast is a cup of ice and a soft sweet bun. This is not a treat or an indulgence to feel guilty about. It is simply how the island eats when the heat arrives, a bowl of granita and a brioche taken at a café table or standing …
Walk into a trattoria in Rome, or Florence, or any small town in between, and ask for garlic bread. You will get a polite, puzzled look. The soft, buttery, garlic-drenched loaf that arrives alongside spaghetti in American restaurants does not exist in Italy, has never existed in Italy, and would strike most Italians as a …
Chiles Rellenos stuffed poblano peppers wrapped in a delicate egg batter and fried to golden perfection are one of Mexico’s most beloved traditional dishes. They offer a beautiful balance of smoky, savory, and creamy flavors that showcase the heart of Mexican home cooking. Whether filled with cheese, seasoned meat, or vegetables, Chiles Rellenos are a …
The focaccia Genovese is the one the world knows, the dimpled, golden, olive-oil-soaked flatbread from Liguria that fills bakery windows from Genoa to Brooklyn. It deserves its fame. But it is not the only focaccia worth learning, and eight hundred kilometers to the south, the city of Bari makes a version that stands entirely on …
Ciabatta looks like it has been made in Italian villages for a thousand years. The rough, floury, slipper-shaped loaf with its open, holey crumb has the air of something ancient and rustic, a peasant bread handed down through generations. It is one of the most convincing pieces of edible theater in the world, because ciabatta …
There is a dish you can order in almost any bar in Spain, from the grandest in Madrid to the smallest in an Andalusian village, and it arrives the same way everywhere, a small earthenware dish still violently bubbling, shrimp curled in golden oil thick with sliced garlic and a confetti of red pepper, a …
If you love empanadas, you might already know that there are different versions of them. Although all are delicious, it’s really good to know the differences between each, as the empanada you’re going for will definitely need different ingredients and cooking styles, ultimately resulting in the unique empanada of your choice of place of origin. …
There is something strange about marmitako. It is a hot, hearty stew, the kind of thing you would expect to eat by a fire in the depths of winter, yet its season is high summer, and its birthplace was not a kitchen at all but the pitching deck of a fishing boat in the Bay …
Americans understand, deep in their bones, that salt makes sweet things better. It is why salted caramel took over dessert menus, why chocolate-covered pretzels exist, why kettle corn is addictive. The salt-sweet contrast is one of the great pleasures of eating. And yet Americans mostly confine it to candy and dessert. Greeks apply the same …
Walk into almost any bar in Spain, order a caña, and look at the tapas on offer. Somewhere on that list, as reliably as olives and tortilla, will be ensaladilla rusa. Russian salad. A creamy mound of potato, tuna, and peas that Spaniards eat by the ton, in a country not otherwise famous for its …
Say the word pesto and most people picture one thing: the bright green Genoese sauce of basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan from the north of Italy. But travel to the far western tip of Sicily, to the port city of Trapani, and you will find a different pesto entirely. It is red, not green. It …
Most cooking is a race against time. You make the thing, you serve the thing, and every hour after that it gets a little worse. Escalivada, the great roasted vegetable dish of Catalonia, quietly breaks that rule. Make it today, and tomorrow it is better. Escalivada is about as simple as a dish can be: …